Boxing Day@ Bogobiri -Kuti No Show

The day after Christmas designated as "Boxing Day" in Great Britain and its former colonies seems to basically be an extension of Christmas Day celebrations, which is fine with me. While in Lagos, we took the opportunity to try and do some more shopping, only to find many stores closed.  The night before, we made our way to Bogobiri House in search of live music on the recommendation of the"voice" at the Federal Casino. 


Bogobiri is an amazing work of art in its own right as well as being a gallery for Nigerian artists. It's a hotel with uniquely appointed rooms, a gallery, there is a restaurant and its a venue for live music. We were excited to learn that Seun Kuti, the oldest son of the pioneer of Afrobeat music, Fela Kuti was schedule to appear at Bogo on Boxing Day.  

Mosaic in bath @ Bogobiri

Tickets were not available, but Ife, who gave us a tour of the rooms, promised to make arrangements for us to get tickets and good seating at the venue.  What a blessing! Going to The Shrine, Kuti's place, was on our list of things to do. Our driver had advised us that it was about an hour drive from our hotel in VI (if there was no 'go slow') and that we should be prepared to be out all night!  But, we were told, s Seun performs just like his father!

The call came--arrive early--7pm (which was when the show was scheduled to begin) and we could get tickets and seats.  We did, and were basically the first guest to arrive, purchased our tickets and spent some time in the gift shop before grabbing a table to the side of the bandstand opposite a row of table marked "reserved".  We ordered appetizers and drinks, chatted with the waiter and other guests as they arrived.


Around 8:45 it was announced that Seun had just called to say that a family matter had come up, he would not perform that night and wanted to reschedule for the 31st.  Though we enjoyed the band that performed--what a disappointment!

Christmas Vacation in Lagos

We spent Christmas Eve exploring and enjoying some of  what Victoria Island, Lagos has to offer. VI is no longer  technically an island since the swamp that originally separated it from the mainland was filled in.  Victoria Island is labeled as the business and financial center of Lagos.  There are banks everywhere.  It's interesting though to just take a turn off one of the well paved roads that provided access and transit from the mainland to VI, Lekki and Ikoyi and run into gravel, stone-filled unpaved streets.  In someways it's very much like the dusty unpaved roads of the north.  According to our driver, hired to take us to several shopping areas, the paved roads have been paid for by  private concerns--the hoteliers and others who want to insure easy and safe transit to their properties.


I suppose shopping on Christmas Eve is the same all over the world (Christain).  The Palms mall was packed with last minute shoppers.  Though each of us had a list of needed items, finding them proved to be a challenge. Selections in women's clothing was somewhat limited, but housewares, electronic accessories and books were easy to find.

Lobby of the Pointer Hotel

We had a number of recommendations from various friends who have either lived or worked in Lagos. But, one of my teammates saw an ad for a casino at the Federal Place Hotel, so we decided to check it out! Our driver dropped us off on the circular drive at the entrance of the lovely appointed hotel.  Within a few minutes, we were greeted by two young women at the entrance to the casino.  They helped us get registered and ushered us into the casino.  On of the women described a drawing which was being held and promised to bring tickets to us.  The short of the story is --Barbara won a prize-dinner for two at the hotel's dining room.  (Whoohoo! Free food!) Then we met the twins, but I'll save that story for another post.

Light display near Civic Center

Pam and Barbara after buying out the crafts marked at the Ecos Hotel

To Lagos for Christmas

Tuesday was the day for our Mentor teachers to turn in their reports and materials from the first of four workshops for more than 1,000 primary school teachers in both Bauchi and Sokoto states. This "first of it's kind" process went fairly well in Bauchi. But, in the process of checking rosters, evaluations, payment forms, etc, I was distracted!


Some members of our team and I had plans to visit Lagos for Christmas. Steve was going to Ethiopia to visit friends and consult with his spiritual leader.  Denise had already left for her homes in Ghana and the US (I understand her flight through the UK was delayed because of the weather). Pam, Barbara and I thought that visiting the urban, southern part of the country where there is a larger Christian population would be a good way to spend the holiday.  Personally, I am hoping to ease any homesickness I anticipate feeling during this my  first Christmas away from my family.


I was in the office until after 5 and couldn't help thinking about all I had to do to prepare for an early morning departure from. Bauchi to Kano. I still needed to pack for spending a couple of nights at the house in Kano (on a sofa) and for the flight to Lagos on Thursday. Towels, bedspread, snacks and water for Kano. Light packing with well- coordinated outfits for Lagos since shopping was part of the plan. Wash my hair. Pack up my room. Yes, when I'm away from Bauchi for an extended period of time, I must pack my things and leave them in a secure place until my return. I am not happy about the arrangement and will take it up with the administration when I return.


The driver arrived at the hotel by 6:30 and by 7 we were on the road. I was cool outside but not as dusty as in previous days. Along the road during the up to four hour trip, I was please that I am now more familiar  with the towns, villages and landmarks through which we pass.  Once in Kano I drop my things at the house, go to an appointment that was rescheduled for the next morning (yikes) and take a taxi back to campus.


On Thursday after my appointment we all headed to the airport.  Steve's departure time was changed. Instead of leaving the house at noon, we left 30 minutes later for the one hour trek to the airport. (Traffic in Kano is outrageous!). At the airport in plenty of time for our scheduled  3:50 departure  which left at 5 pm with profuse apologies from the Aero air flight crew. My camera batteries were confiscated by airport security.  Another check as we walked across the tarmac to the plane raised a concern about the insect repellent that I'd forgotten was in the side pocket of my back pack. Weather delayed our landing, but eight we were outside the arrival terminal waiting for our driver to pick us up. We waited


..and waited. More than ten calls passed between Barbara and the Driver. He said "come outside". She said "we are outside the new terminal under the flags". After about 20 minutes an airport policeman grabbed her phone and spoke with the driver.  As it turned out, he was in the car park next to the arrival area. The trip to the Pointers Hotel on Victoria Island took about one hour.  Heavy pedestrian and vehicle traffic was everywhere.


We were all happy to arrive at the lovely appointed Pointers. There were some additional negotiations that had to take place, but by midnight we had eaten a nice meal and on our way to settle into what was now two rooms instead of the one we had originally booked.


I know my teammates enjoyed the water jet propelled hot shower even more that I, since the houses in which they live in Kano and Wudil have only cold running water, that is when the water is running.  We all had a good night's sleep and are planning to pack in as many sites as possible during our four day stay. I'll try to get some pictures.

On the Road During Harmattan

Just after our arrival in October, we were made aware of a weather condition called the Harmattan. Our country representative and others in the Kano office warned that the weather would change dramatically in December.  It would be cold, windy and hazy, we were told.  I wondered just how cold it could become. Surely it couldn't be that cold!  When I woke up shivering the last time I was in Kano, I realized what they were talking about.  It was very chilly, probably 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.

On Sunday we set out early from Bauchi  to monitor the training of teachers and facilitators in four of the 10 local government areas (lga's-similar to counties in the States). We were on the road all day traveling from Bauchi to Itas, Katagum, Misau and Gamawa. We travelled more than 500miles!

I thought, " Wow, it's really foggy out this morning!".  But by noon when the'fog' had not cleared, I asked what was happening.  The haze, which continued into the evening was part of the Harmattan. Winds blowing south across the Sahara desert pick up particles of sand that fill the air making this golden foggy haze, which by all accounts, will get worse over the next few weeks.  How do people with upper respiratory challenges handle it?


When I'm on the road like this there is seldom a chance to stop and take pictures.  I am fascinated by the Fulani people who I see along the roads and in the fields herding their livestock.  I mostly see them--young boys and men of all ages, standing in the fields with their staffs resting across their shoulders and often wearing some unique straw head coverings.

On the way to Katagum, I was pleasantly surprised to see not one, but two female herders. Both girls were no more than 10 years old and both were handling at least 20 cattle!
The Fulani live all over West Africa and are thought to have migrated from an area around the Senegal River Valley,entering what was referred to as Hausaland in the 13th century. They are one of the first group of people in West Africa to converted to Islam. Other religions are represented within the group including traditional religions. As the nomadic Fulani move throughout the areas of northern Nigeria, they conquered the Hausa  and somewhat blended into one society. 


From the conversations between my colleagues of Yoruba and Fulani origins, I learn about the Fulani caste system and how during special occasions, people are served different packages of food in different locations depending on their status.


Traveling back to  Bauchi provided even more insight into this unique culture. We were held up by a line of cars thought to be part of a political campaign.  About 30 cars ahead was a van with lights flashing on top.  At the border between Ningi and Bauchi, the convoy cam to a halt. There was a flurry of activity. Men got out of cars and moved quickly to the center of the line.  Some of the men were dressed in red and blue turbans that I recognized from my experience at the Durbar in Kano as guards for the emir. There is to be a big celebration and installation of the governor and other dignitaries into positions related to the emirate of Bauchi on Tuesday. A Durbar will be held in the afternoon.  (My supervisor says he has an invitation, but I'm not sure we will have time to attend anything other than wrapping up final reports on workshops with mentor teachers and coordinators)


Its an interesting system whereby a traditional religious system, its laws and pagentry exists along side the civil government of the nation.

On the Road Again

This should probably be the theme song for my stay here in Nigeria! I've just completed a 3-day training session in Azare with instructors who will serve as Mentor Teachers for the Nigeria Northern Education Program(NEI).   The 27 trainees are all members of the faculty  of the College of Education in  Azare and will, along with 20 other MTs, be responsible for providing training and support for teachers in 100 public and Islamiyya schools and non formal learning centers throughout the state. Student-centered instructional modules on Literacy for Primary 4 pupils  were featured in these first training sessions. After being field-tested and revised the modules are now ready to be place in the hands of teachers to help guide them away from the 'chalk and talk' approach to learning in the majority of classrooms in both Bauchi and Sokoto states.  The Ministry of Education, local government officials and community groups are disturbed about the 70+%  rate of illiteracy in the northern states and want to make changes in the system-in teacher training, placement and in instruction.


My training partner and I were expected to travel to and from Azare each of the three days.  Five hours on the road plus seven hours of intense sessions wasn't appealing, so we negotiated to stay in Azare, but where? It's not as if there are Holiday Inns, or Days Inns, or even Motel 6 along the road.  A call was made to one of the contact people who recommended a hotel, but when we arrived on Tuesday morning, another contact told us about a less expensive alternative "where people from the medical school stayed". The short of the story is that this off the road, down the path and around the corner place was the kind where you sleep with your eyes open! We stayed just one night.  In our haste to secure a place while on lunch break, we had paid for two nights without looking at the only other hotel in town. Fortunately, the second nights payment was refunded.


Again during lunch, we checked out the Jimroose International Hotel (not quite) and asked key questions:  What time is the generator turned on? (6pm) What time is it turned off? (midnight) Is there central hot water or individual tanks(individual which means take your shower at night while the power is on if you want hot water!) Are there rats (they always say 'no, of course not!') And most importantly, is hot water available for coffee? (Yes, it will be brought from the restaurant at 7am).  We forgot to ask what time the gen went on in the morning.  At the previous place power was provided from 5-6am so that residents could prepare for work.  At Jimroose, there was no early morning schedule, so when I woke up at 6, I pulled out my trusty flashlight to get to the 4'x4' bathroom to take a cool shower.


One of the MT's loaned us a car for the duration of our stay-a manual shift Honda Civic.  I was thrilled by the chance to drive, even if it was just for a short time.  Negotiating motor bike, pedestrian and livestock traffic along with potholes, round-abouts and free-flowing traffic was a little more than I thought I could handle.  After getting us safely back to campus, I turned the keys over to my training partner.  He got us everywhere safely, but in my opinion did not handle the car as well as I did :-)


A flat tire greeted us the last  morning of our stay.  Again the great sense of hospitality of the Nigerian people emerged.  There is always someone willing to help.  A man who was washing cars in the parking lot, changed the tire and we were on our way. After giving participants their assignments and paying them for their participation (Yes, people get paid for attending workshops)


Rules about not being on the road at night had to be revised.  It was after five when we left Azare. This meant arriving in Bauchi around 8pm.  The nighttime drive was beautiful, but somewhat frightening. People returning home from daily routines were barely visible along the unlit roads. Some motorbikes carrying passengers to their destinations. had either dim or no headlights at all.  One huge cargo truck had lights only on the left side.


Thanks to our excellent driver, we arrived safely. Personally I was looking forward to a hot shower and a good nights sleep.

A little interruption in my flow here. In the words of Arnold " I'll be back". Soon.

In Abuja for Carnival

Hard to believe-I think this is the first Friday I’ve had off since coming to Nigeria! Yesterday we finished field testing sample lessons at 9 school sites in three different local government areas.  The consultants left late in the afternoon, my colleague and I are on our way back to Bauchi to repeat the process there.

This was also my first opportunity to take an intra country flight.  The Virgin Nigeria flight from Sokoto to Abuja operated on time. (My colleague had complained that his previous experiences involved hours late departures, so I wasn't sure what to expect) At the termination of the flight it was announced that the company is in the process of transitioning to Nigerian Air. I know there have been some problems with the operation of airline companies, so I’m hoping this move means a more reliable flight system within the country.

I did not know about the Carnival celebration before coming to Abuja, but there are signs everywhere. I plan to be on site tomorrow (Sat) when the festivities start! This is the 6th Carnival celebration and apparently attracts participants from around the country

Eventually I’ll be able to post pictures again. Just a little technical problem right now.

Abuja is quite a contrast to the Nigerian cities I've visited so far.  When the decision was made to move the capitol from Lagos to the center of the country, a city with a well planned infrastructure and layout was built from the ground up! Not a pothole or unpaved road in sight! Wide expressways and avenues allow traffic to move rapidly from one are to the other, but of course like any urban area there are traffic jams especially on Friday afternoon!  After checking into our hotel, we criss-crossed the city, going to Adios (a grocery/department store) and a couple of shopping centers.

My biggest surprise-no motorbikes! They are banned in Abuja! In Kano, Sokoto and Bauchi, there seem to be more motorbikes than cars! I've frequently had to close my eyes when cars and motorbike appeared on the verge of colliding. 

I'm going to search out details on the Carnival venue. Later..

Happy Thanksgiving

As I hurriled prepare to leave my room to participate in Field testing exercises today, I want to take a moment to give thanks and to try and express how very blessed I am each and every day.


I give thanks to Mother/Father God.


Thank you to my family for their love,support  and prayers.


Thank you to friends for their support and prayers.
Thankyou, thank you, thank you.
Gotta go. I'm late!

Steve has arrived!

Steve, the 4^th original member of the Nigerian team finally arrived in Kano the evening of the Durbar.  His departure from the states was delayed, initially because of a scheduling conflict and then because of a health challenge.  Steve has been appointed our Team Leader.

He arrived the night of the big Durbar bearing gifts (actually requests) from the states. Both Pam and I had asked for French coffee presses. He brought them both--each with an 8-cup capacity.  Being a west-coaster like the 3 other members of the group, he also brought us both bags of ground coffee from Peetes.  I’ve been told that this is the place to get good beans and good coffee out west.  Barbara had requested Twizzler red licorice.  Ah! The comforts of home.

We were reunited with Steve, on Thursday afternoon. He and our country rep had gotten caught in the traffic of another Durbar event and decided to stay and watch the parade. Steve was exhausted by the time he reached the office.  After a 24-hour flight, he’d had only about 4 hours sleep. 

We went to his hotel to gleefully collect our goodies and the allowed him to rest.  He would learn of the drama and challenges of the house in Kano in good time.  For the moment, there is no room for him to move into because another set of volunteers are occupying the room that Pam has to move into so Steve can have her room that has a private bathroom.  The other volunteers have not yet been told they have to move.  I’m waiting for an update from the gang.

I’ll be working here in Sokoto until Friday. On to Abuja until Sunday. I can’t wait to get back to Bauchi so that I can brew a pot of real coffee.

Sallah and the Durbar in Kano

On Monday, the 15^th I was excited and looking forward to spending a few days in Kano with  other members of the IFESH Nigerian Team to celebrate Sallah and attend the Durbar. After a delayed departure from Bauchi, I was off on the four hour drive. It’s always a pleasure to ride with Timothy, one of the drivers for the program I work for.  He provides a wealth of information about the history and culture of this part of the country and always stops for a little snack along the road—dried dates being one his favorites.

We passed through villages and towns brimming with people preparing for Sallah. Cow, goats and rams were stuffed onto the backs of truck, vans and even balanced on motorcycles.  I saw one man leading a ram down the road by holding its left forefoot.   A goat whose had poked out of the back of van bleated so frantically, I was sure it knew its fate!

After arriving at the house in Kano, we sat around as usual and compared notes about our jobs and living arrangements.  Barbara, a vegetarian, talked about how startled she was  during her morning walk when she came upon a couple of areas on  campus where animals had been slaughtered and the meat was being divided between the men who had put their money together to purchase a cow or ram for the holiday.

Our country rep invited us to her home for the celebration of Sallah. The celebration is known by different names in various Islamic communities. Eid al-Adha, Festival of Sacrifice, or Sacrifice Feast.  It marks the end of Hajj, or the pilgrimage to Mecca.  It commemorates the willingness of Ibrahim (Abraham) to sacrifice his oldest son Ishmael in a command from Allah and Ishmael’s willingness to accept his fate.  I understand that Eid varies from year to year based on the lunar calendar used in Islam.

In the early afternoon we walked to the home of our country rep.  She had sent us a lovely breakfast of masa—both rice and wheat, along with aguisi (a kind of stew containing several kinds of meat, a ground nut and a leafy green spinach like vegetable) late in the morning.  We found her in her back yard with her house staff and members of her family, laboring over two big wok- like pots filled with meat.  A grill being tended by her brother had more meat on it.

We ate plates full of delicious couscous, fried rice and grilled meat drank fruit juice and minerals (soda) to our hearts content.  Nafisa and another woman continue working, wrapping packets of cooked and raw meat to share with the less fortunate.

All were excited when we were handed our invitations from His Royal Highness, the Emir of Kano Alhaji (Dr) Ado Bayero’s Eid-El Kabir “Hawan Daushe Durbar.  According to the invitation this is the largest of Durbar celebrations:

                “This takes place on the 2^nd day of Allah.  It is considered the most impressive, most wonderful and most interesting part of the Durbar Celebrations.  It is popularly referred to as “the Royal Exhibition of Garments and Regalia.”  And over 5,000 horse riders parade to portray our rich traditions.  The origin of Hawan “Daushe” dates back to some 200 years.  One of the Emirs favorite servants, called “Daushe” could not participate in the Eid Durbar due to illness.  He therefore requested to have an extra ride with the Emir the next day.  Since then, the tradition to hold this event has been maintained.  This occasion was also used for the Emir to pay homage to his mother.  The Emir receives homage from all traditional title holders, including District Heads, Village Heads and Ward Heads.

”

And what a spectacle it was!  The next day,after making a stop to deliver a Sallah gift, we arrived at the palace- about two hours before event was scheduled to begin.  According to our invitations, we were to be seated in section “B”, a covered area on the opposite side of the huge area behind the palace.  Dear Usmann, who knows people everywhere in Kano, persuaded a guard and coordinator to seat us in section “A” an area on the second level that overlooked the field.

A number of seats in this “VIP” area had been reserved by the Nigerian Department of Tourism and became filled by some South African oil folk who had also been invited to a reception with the Emir. Hmmm.

Before the parade began, groups of men wearing red berets, khaki uniforms and carrying what appeared to be long tree limbs, cleared the field.  These guys were volunteers called vigilantes.  I’ll have to learn more about them.

Finally the parade began! There were drummers and acrobats, singers and rappers, precision marching teams and warriors, riders and horses so grandly regaled...well; you just had to be there.  Male members of the royal family were identified by the two tufts on their turbans.  Female members of the family were represented by male riders (of course). 

Then --the gun salute to herald the arrival of the Emir.  About 30 men dressed in red tunics with blue sashes formed a semi-circle from the entrance of the field to just below where we were seated. I can’t imagine that one of these guys didn’t get hurt firing these old gun powder rifles. Sparks flew as some guns were fired; one gunman was knocked on his but from a crouched position and another spun completely around!  They were loud!  A small child seated near us screamed at the top of his lungs throughout this part of the procession.

Most fascinating was the composure of the horses.  They didn’t flinch!

Camels as gallantly attired as the horses were led in. And then, under a huge orange twirling umbrella (shades of New Orleans) the Emir entered to the roar of the crowd.

As we walked toward the stairs and were held aside as the governor and his entourage left.  “no pictures” said a man holding his had up as I tried to aim my camera.  (yes, I have some pictures).Huge crowds were collecting and moving at the bottom of the stairs.  About twenty or so people wearing what appeared to be campaign shirts and carrying signs were making quite a bit of noise at the foot of the stairs.  Vehicles with blaring horns and horses became all mixed together.  I was separated from the group but continued to walk quickly towards the parking lot as the shoving and shouting escalated.  I discovered that Usmann had gone back to look for me, but it wasn’t long before he was back at the care and we were on our way.

Driving in Kano is regularly insane. This was the worse I’d experienced, even with the police directing traffic on just about every corner. (Many drivers ignore them). It was though a chance to see some of the horses and their riders up close.

We ended our day by eating at a new restaurant named “Pizza Hot”—a nicely appointed place in one of the more affluent areas of Kano.  I treated myself to a small chicken special pizza for 3,000 Naira or $20- my food budget for a week.  It was delicious and a welcome change from my rice plus diet!

photos to come 

Smackdown: The Coffee ‘Snob’ vs. the Chemist—a Reality Check

On more than one occasion, I guess I’ve whined about the lack of availability of ground coffee in several places to which I’ve traveled. My IFESH teammates are all serious coffee drinkers, so much of our early conversations focused on finding and brewing the stuff.  Barbara had given more thought to the process than the rest of us.  She brought coffee filters and a little green plastic cone shaped thing in which the filter rested in order to ‘brew’ her coffee.  We just needed to find more of the ground stuff-- not an easy task.

Anyway, I suppose my ranting about the sachets or jars of freeze dried Nescafe everywhere I go finally go to my dear cousin, Loretta.  She responded with some realities about the use of this beverage and others like it in the developing world:

“(Freeze dried and or - spray dried coffee) As a chemist with the Nestle Company for 30 years with the main product the first 12 years strictly coffee research, that person who responded is correct about convenience being one of the reasons but one needs to also be aware of storage problems in countries without good sanitation. Many countries do not have the luxury of owning coffee brewers.  They do have the basics of boiling water available.  They know tea preparation, Maggi soup preparation etc.  Since they boil water first to make it safe to drink, it is then purified and ready to prepare their cup of instant coffee. Instant coffee has been used in other countries much longer than in this country (USA) although the process of freeze drying was developed in central Ohio by the Nestle Company. It is getting more acceptable due to the increase in quality due to continuous aroma research. You also have to realize that tastes differ across the world and having been exposed to instant first, the strength and notes of brewed do not appeal to everyone.  In this country (USA) it has become more convenient as a base for many other drinks (more versatility), hot and cold. Keep in mind that a real cup of coffee to many would be Turkish coffee.  That's about the closes to non- altered coffee as one can get. Enjoy the love of the region. “

Spray dried coffee? I’d never heard that term, so I asked…and she replied:
“To make a long story shorter:

Typically the coffee beans chosen for instant coffee production are from the lower end of the quality scale, since many of the subtle flavors and aromas of the more expensive types are lost in the production process. Of, course the aroma is contained and captured to add back to increase its quality. Spray dried coffee is considerably cheaper to produce than freeze dried coffee, the latter of which is considered the more higher quality product. You can usually tell as it says on the package which process is used and spray-dried appears darker with softer granules and powdery.”

Every morning from now on, I will pour the water from the hot pot, into a cup filled with a teaspoon or so of granulated coffee and sip it with a greater appreciation for its convenience and determination to find some Turkish coffee the next time I’m in Kano.

More about our requests from Steve who traveled from Seattle this week in another post.

Sunday @ Zaranda

After a full day of working with Mentor Teachers on Saturday, I looked forward to sleeping later and exploring the grounds of the Zaranda Hotel.  My internal clock woke me at 6 am, but I was soon able to go back to sleep and finally got up around 9. Then my morning routine -including two cups of Nescafe instant coffee.  It’s still hard to believe- on the continent that’s one of the worlds’ top coffee growers, regular ground coffee is not readily available.  Someone explained it to me like this- “We just grow it, we don’t process it!”  I guess the preferred instant or freeze-dried product is also convenient.  But as real coffee lovers know, there is no comparison to the flavor to a cup of freshly ground coffee. 

By the time I finished doing a little hand laundry, there was a knock at my door.  The housekeeper wanted to clean my room.  In thirty minutes I said, and tried to hurriedly get dressed.  I suppose my room was the last on his list.  When I opened the door, his equipment was propped and stacked on the opposite wall and he was sitting in one of the chairs in the lounge area near the elevators.

I headed to the stairs.  Yes, I’m on the 9^th floor, but thought I needed to get some exercise otherwise my Nigerian rice+ diet is going to catch up with me. As I rounded the 3^rd floor landing I heard the thumping of lively music and stopped to look out the window to see if a reception or party was taking place on the grounds.  There was nothing I could see so I continued on my way.

I was a little startled when I reach the first floor.  Seated facing the stairs was a man dressed in fatigues wearing a bullet proof vest and armed with a machine gun.  Nearby were two other officers also armed and with vests that identified them as police.  The music was coming from the same room where my workshop had been conducted the day before.  Reconfigured, it was now the site of a meeting of politicians from around the state.  Twenty or so men were sitting around when I got to the lobby apparently waiting for the meeting to start.  A number of cars were parked outside along the driveway and in the parking lot.  Groups of men stood around talking for about 45 minutes before they all went inside. 

Of course I wanted to take pictures, especially of the guards, but common sense prevailed.   I explored the grounds, discovered the “After  Six Grill and Bar” and  sat for a while sipping on a Schweppes Bitter Lemon—next to bottled water, my drink of choice here.  This outdoor area is similar to the one at the Dankani in Sokoto.  There are 6-8 gazebo-like structures with a main grill and “bar” area.  The cook was at church; however a young man told me fresh fish was grilled there every day. Prices he said depend on the size of the fish.  I’ll definitely have to check this out.  Most restaurants serve mostly beef and chicken dishes, so fish would be great change of pace.

As I made my way back up to the 9^th floor, the policeman in the protective vest greeted me, Good Afternoon, Mam, so you came back, huh?”  Very hospitable.  

The day has been restful. So now I’ve got to find out how I’m going to get to Kano for Sallah and to attend the Durbar at which our country rep has made reservations.  I'm excitedly anticipating seeing the regalia and horsemanship of this event.  Unfortunately, one can't just hop on a bus or hire a car for the 4 hour trip from Bauchi to Kano, but more about that later...

Settling In--The Call to Prayer

I guess exhaustion and jet lag caused me to sleep like a baby my first night in Nigeria. The usual restlessness  I’ve felt, no matter the location, didn’t happen. Lights were turned out about 1 am and I must have fallen asleep immediately.  The next thing I remember was being awakened by a high pitched vocalization coming from somewhere in the area over an amplified system.

Adhan—the Islamic Call to Prayer occurs 5 times a day.  To me, the most notable call heard at dawn, (which has been around 5 am). ( Some muezzins, or prayer leaders ar more melodic than others. Yes, I do realize tonality is not the point)

At this point I am fully awake!  I’ll be returning to Bauchi today via Kano.  One of the vans which will be taken to Kano for service will pick me up at 6:30. Can you hear me singing “On the road again”??  I came for a week, stayed three and have thoroughly enjoyed my work here in Sokoto

Here is a sample of the call to prayer;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0_vnon5owE

"You Can't Take A Picture of these Cows Without Paying"

This shorty was serious as I tried to snap a picture of the cows he was herding down the road. 

The Children Ran Away From Me!

On our second day of field testing, the team to which I was assigned rode to a school about 20 minutes away from the city center. The large school compound housed an elementary and a secondary school separated by a wide dusty area used as a playground during recess.  Following protocol we met with the headmaster and his staff and signed the visitors register.  A member of the projects advisory group who had attend the school met us there to help insure that all went well.

The headmaster was asked to assemble all P1 and P4 students in the yard, girls and boys in different lines for each level, so that we could make the random selection for testing.  The headmaster was getting ready to direct us to a classroom where some adjustments with seating had to be made.  In my  not so infinite wisdom, I asked if the library could be used, thinking that it would be a place where testers could work undisturbed in separate areas of what is normally one of the largest rooms in a school. We tested in the library, but it did not provide the atmosphere I expected. But that's not what this particular story is about...

The children lined up near the headmasters office and I was asked to count and choose from the P1 girls line. I always smile and say hello to the children.  This time was no exception. I started counting at the back of the line, but out of the corner of my eye I see a student dash from the line, and run off to an area somewhere behind me. I continued counting...8, 9, 10.  Then three girls bolted from the line, followed by 5 or six more! Thirty students suddenly evaporated into 5! The head master and others shouted to the girls in Hausa.  I laughed and wondered if I had needed to check myself in the mirror before leaving for work that morning.  

The headmaster and representative were embarrassed and very apologetic.  They explained that the girls thought I had come to give them injections! After all I was a stranger--strange English accent, strange clothing, oh my! It took a few minutes to round up and reassure the girls before the testing began.

The disturbing observations was that the children could not read in their native language.  They have memorized alphabets and scripts and can creatively invent a story to tell, but don't know letter sounds and can't read

Field Testing with EGRA Hausa Team

Our first day of field testing went well. It provided an opportunity to test the instrument, review testing procedures and practice for test administrators.  After review  teams will field test again in schools in outlying areas.

Our team arrives at  the public elementary school. It shares space with the Islamyyia school whose sessions are held in the afternoon.

Mohammed, Bilyaminu and Sandra randomly select students to participate in field test.

Students look on with curiosity as participants are selected

Student receives pencil before returning to class

Older boys uses switches to keep students in line during recess

Student's permission mus be obtained before testing can begin.

Area College of Education supports project

The EGRA Hausa Adaptation Workshop

On Sunday, October 17th I traveled to Sokoto with  a group of stakeholders and test administrators from Bauchi state and the person with whom I will be working at NEI (Northern Nigeria Education Initiative), a USAID funded project.  In conjunction with the respective Colleges of Education (COE) of each state, Ministries of Education (MOE), Local Government Authority (LGA) and others, NEI is operating programs in both Bauchi and Sokoto States to address poor student performance in literacy and numeracy (mathematics); issues with teacher competency and qualifications and capacity building for stakeholders. One hundred schools in each state have been targeted.  Those include public, formal, informal and Islamyyia school.

The week-long workshop we attended was a follow-up to one held in the spring which included training and trial testing of EGRA(Early Grades Reading Assessment) in English.  Students in the group sampled performed dismally.  The national curriculum requires instruction in the major national language, Hausa, in grades 1-3. Yet many parents prefer students to learn English as soon as possible.  English is view and the language of 'success'.

Sandra Hollingsworth EGRA Hausa Adaptation Workshop

The workshop to adapt EGRA to Hausa and train educators to administer the instrument was conducted by Dr. Sandra Hollingsworth in conjunction with Alison Pflepsen a Research Education Analyst with RTI and Dr. Malami Buba, Linguist, Hausa Specialist and Professor at Usmanu Danfodiyo University here in Sokoto. I gained valuable knowledge about the process of learning to read and how proficiency comes with being literate in ones native language. This provides the cognitive and conceptional knowledge needed to successfully transfer to a second language.  Too many of the children in these states are not literate in either Hausa or English. Students memorize the alphabet, but don't know letter sounds.

Dr. Buba on the orthography of Hausa

During the week we were introduced to the research, provided background on the Hausa language and the difference in dialects spoken in Bauchi and Sokoto (two slightly different tests were developed), made modifications to the test, practiced and practiced,  field tested the instrument in two local schools, and practiced a little more.  The instrument was then ready for finalization and testing in January or Feb of next year.  some very interesting dynamics in this whole process.  


I've learned a few phrases in Hausa in the process.  Thanks to Dr. Buba, I have some materials to use for practice.

Workshop participants from Bauchi

Nuru, Senior Teacher Advisor, Bauchi

Workshop participants from Bauchi and Sokoto

Settling In (Part 2) Pictures on the Road to Bauchi 10/13/10

Yay! We've arrived in Bauchi.

Where are the Earth Science people and geologist when you need them?

Our van from Sa'adatu Rimi College of Education got us to Bauchi safely!

The Zaranda Hotel, Bauchi

Settling In (Part 1)

Pam, Barbara and I, 3/4^th of the original IFESH Nigerian team, had little idea of what to expect for lodging during our tenure.  Descriptions of their own housing situation by returning volunteers was varied.  I guess the most sage advice I heard was “Make sure you check everything out before you are left in the place where you’re to live—check water, fridge, generator, cabinets to make sure everything is in working order.”

 Our country rep was familiar with the housing on the college campus where the IFESH office was housed, but had not seen the places where Barbara and I were to reside.  The house in Kano  is a somewhat rambling structure where volunteers from several different programs live.  It was said that the house was the former residence of the Provost.  Someone speculated that he must not have lived there for a very long time.  The house had also been used as a demo house for students in the Home Economics Department according to one of the volunteers who had been there for a while.

The three of us shared two bedrooms during our four-day orientation.  I tried to settle into the rhythm of the place—the generator schedule,  the processes of filling the water tubs in the bathrooms and kitchen when the water was running, lighting the stove with just one match and more importantly remembering to turn the gas tank off when I finished using it! (Admittedly I never learned how to start the generator because Tim, vol from another program, was always around to turn it on around 6 pm and off at 10pm.) I learned to keep my flashlight nearby.

Most food scraps are thrown in the back yard for the chickens who wandered through the compound. Other trash is dumped into a sunken tub like structure for burning from time to time, plastic and glass  bottles were put in a box outside the front door for disposal (recycling?) by the guards or drivers.  (Guards are around 24/7 and the compound is used to park some of the vehicles that belong to the college.)

On Tuesday of the first week, we traveled to Wudill, about a 40 minute drive from Kano, to the College of Science and Technology where Barbara is assigned.  After meeting the college representatives we went to survey Barbara’s housing assignment, and were forewarned that it would not be ready for here occupancy until later in the week, probably Thursday.  We were pleasantly surprised at the newly constructed “duplex’ where she was to live.  Guest lectures reside upstairs and had a separate entrance. Barbara would live downstairs with her own kitchen bedroom and living room.

I thought to myself, “I’d be very happy with housing somewhere in between the house in Kano and the one in Wudill.”  The field trip to drop me off at my assignment in Bauchi was scheduled for  Thursday (10/14). The plan—The Kano staff and us volunteers would all make the four hour trip to Bauchi;  they would  drop Barbara off on the way back to Kano.  The driver  who had transported the group earlier in the week had taken the bus to the garage in anticipation of our journey.



Our official photo at the College of Science and Technology, Wudill.
Provost and dignitaries from the college, Mambouray from IFESH.
Front row: Safiya, Barbara, Nafisa, our country rep, Pam and me

With  a/c blasting, we pulled onto the road outside the gates of the college just after eight. There were plenty of refreshments and spirited conversation all around.  About a quarter of a mile down the road the bus stalled out. Restarted after a very short time, it was eventually decided that it would be better to turn the air off and reduce the strain on the engine ( we stalled two more times). The weather was pleasant so we enjoyed the ride.  The countryside was interesting –towns, villages, marketplaces and faces of the people of the North.

As we crossed into Bauchi state, the landscape became more lush and green with fields of corn, sugar can mango trees baobab tress and others I couldn’t identify. Large domed hills pushed up in the distance on both sides of the road.

Once we reached the city of Bauchi, our country rep call NEI for directions to the office.   A rendezvous point was arranged—the Zaranda Hotel. From there we were led less than half a mile to the office complex.

 Nestled within the concrete walled, metal gated compound was a series of new, single story structures, each housing a different component of the Northern Nigeria Education Initiative project.   We were greeted by the assistant director (titled Deputy Chief of Party) and some of his senior staff,  took a moment to refresh ourselves (at the insistence of our country rep) and began our meeting and personnel hand off. After photos and a brief tour and introductions, we were directed back to the Zaranda Hotel to deposit my belongings!

 What a blessing and pleasant surprise! A least for a few days I was going to be able to enjoy regular air conditioning, regular back up power and, oh joy wireless Internet access!

After a shower and a little rest, I started working around 4 that afternoon and stayed in the office until sometime after 8.  So much for sucking up a/c!