Boxing Day@ Bogobiri -Kuti No Show

The day after Christmas designated as "Boxing Day" in Great Britain and its former colonies seems to basically be an extension of Christmas Day celebrations, which is fine with me. While in Lagos, we took the opportunity to try and do some more shopping, only to find many stores closed.  The night before, we made our way to Bogobiri House in search of live music on the recommendation of the"voice" at the Federal Casino. 


Bogobiri is an amazing work of art in its own right as well as being a gallery for Nigerian artists. It's a hotel with uniquely appointed rooms, a gallery, there is a restaurant and its a venue for live music. We were excited to learn that Seun Kuti, the oldest son of the pioneer of Afrobeat music, Fela Kuti was schedule to appear at Bogo on Boxing Day.  

Mosaic in bath @ Bogobiri

Tickets were not available, but Ife, who gave us a tour of the rooms, promised to make arrangements for us to get tickets and good seating at the venue.  What a blessing! Going to The Shrine, Kuti's place, was on our list of things to do. Our driver had advised us that it was about an hour drive from our hotel in VI (if there was no 'go slow') and that we should be prepared to be out all night!  But, we were told, s Seun performs just like his father!

The call came--arrive early--7pm (which was when the show was scheduled to begin) and we could get tickets and seats.  We did, and were basically the first guest to arrive, purchased our tickets and spent some time in the gift shop before grabbing a table to the side of the bandstand opposite a row of table marked "reserved".  We ordered appetizers and drinks, chatted with the waiter and other guests as they arrived.


Around 8:45 it was announced that Seun had just called to say that a family matter had come up, he would not perform that night and wanted to reschedule for the 31st.  Though we enjoyed the band that performed--what a disappointment!

Christmas Vacation in Lagos

We spent Christmas Eve exploring and enjoying some of  what Victoria Island, Lagos has to offer. VI is no longer  technically an island since the swamp that originally separated it from the mainland was filled in.  Victoria Island is labeled as the business and financial center of Lagos.  There are banks everywhere.  It's interesting though to just take a turn off one of the well paved roads that provided access and transit from the mainland to VI, Lekki and Ikoyi and run into gravel, stone-filled unpaved streets.  In someways it's very much like the dusty unpaved roads of the north.  According to our driver, hired to take us to several shopping areas, the paved roads have been paid for by  private concerns--the hoteliers and others who want to insure easy and safe transit to their properties.


I suppose shopping on Christmas Eve is the same all over the world (Christain).  The Palms mall was packed with last minute shoppers.  Though each of us had a list of needed items, finding them proved to be a challenge. Selections in women's clothing was somewhat limited, but housewares, electronic accessories and books were easy to find.

Lobby of the Pointer Hotel

We had a number of recommendations from various friends who have either lived or worked in Lagos. But, one of my teammates saw an ad for a casino at the Federal Place Hotel, so we decided to check it out! Our driver dropped us off on the circular drive at the entrance of the lovely appointed hotel.  Within a few minutes, we were greeted by two young women at the entrance to the casino.  They helped us get registered and ushered us into the casino.  On of the women described a drawing which was being held and promised to bring tickets to us.  The short of the story is --Barbara won a prize-dinner for two at the hotel's dining room.  (Whoohoo! Free food!) Then we met the twins, but I'll save that story for another post.

Light display near Civic Center

Pam and Barbara after buying out the crafts marked at the Ecos Hotel

To Lagos for Christmas

Tuesday was the day for our Mentor teachers to turn in their reports and materials from the first of four workshops for more than 1,000 primary school teachers in both Bauchi and Sokoto states. This "first of it's kind" process went fairly well in Bauchi. But, in the process of checking rosters, evaluations, payment forms, etc, I was distracted!


Some members of our team and I had plans to visit Lagos for Christmas. Steve was going to Ethiopia to visit friends and consult with his spiritual leader.  Denise had already left for her homes in Ghana and the US (I understand her flight through the UK was delayed because of the weather). Pam, Barbara and I thought that visiting the urban, southern part of the country where there is a larger Christian population would be a good way to spend the holiday.  Personally, I am hoping to ease any homesickness I anticipate feeling during this my  first Christmas away from my family.


I was in the office until after 5 and couldn't help thinking about all I had to do to prepare for an early morning departure from. Bauchi to Kano. I still needed to pack for spending a couple of nights at the house in Kano (on a sofa) and for the flight to Lagos on Thursday. Towels, bedspread, snacks and water for Kano. Light packing with well- coordinated outfits for Lagos since shopping was part of the plan. Wash my hair. Pack up my room. Yes, when I'm away from Bauchi for an extended period of time, I must pack my things and leave them in a secure place until my return. I am not happy about the arrangement and will take it up with the administration when I return.


The driver arrived at the hotel by 6:30 and by 7 we were on the road. I was cool outside but not as dusty as in previous days. Along the road during the up to four hour trip, I was please that I am now more familiar  with the towns, villages and landmarks through which we pass.  Once in Kano I drop my things at the house, go to an appointment that was rescheduled for the next morning (yikes) and take a taxi back to campus.


On Thursday after my appointment we all headed to the airport.  Steve's departure time was changed. Instead of leaving the house at noon, we left 30 minutes later for the one hour trek to the airport. (Traffic in Kano is outrageous!). At the airport in plenty of time for our scheduled  3:50 departure  which left at 5 pm with profuse apologies from the Aero air flight crew. My camera batteries were confiscated by airport security.  Another check as we walked across the tarmac to the plane raised a concern about the insect repellent that I'd forgotten was in the side pocket of my back pack. Weather delayed our landing, but eight we were outside the arrival terminal waiting for our driver to pick us up. We waited


..and waited. More than ten calls passed between Barbara and the Driver. He said "come outside". She said "we are outside the new terminal under the flags". After about 20 minutes an airport policeman grabbed her phone and spoke with the driver.  As it turned out, he was in the car park next to the arrival area. The trip to the Pointers Hotel on Victoria Island took about one hour.  Heavy pedestrian and vehicle traffic was everywhere.


We were all happy to arrive at the lovely appointed Pointers. There were some additional negotiations that had to take place, but by midnight we had eaten a nice meal and on our way to settle into what was now two rooms instead of the one we had originally booked.


I know my teammates enjoyed the water jet propelled hot shower even more that I, since the houses in which they live in Kano and Wudil have only cold running water, that is when the water is running.  We all had a good night's sleep and are planning to pack in as many sites as possible during our four day stay. I'll try to get some pictures.

On the Road During Harmattan

Just after our arrival in October, we were made aware of a weather condition called the Harmattan. Our country representative and others in the Kano office warned that the weather would change dramatically in December.  It would be cold, windy and hazy, we were told.  I wondered just how cold it could become. Surely it couldn't be that cold!  When I woke up shivering the last time I was in Kano, I realized what they were talking about.  It was very chilly, probably 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.

On Sunday we set out early from Bauchi  to monitor the training of teachers and facilitators in four of the 10 local government areas (lga's-similar to counties in the States). We were on the road all day traveling from Bauchi to Itas, Katagum, Misau and Gamawa. We travelled more than 500miles!

I thought, " Wow, it's really foggy out this morning!".  But by noon when the'fog' had not cleared, I asked what was happening.  The haze, which continued into the evening was part of the Harmattan. Winds blowing south across the Sahara desert pick up particles of sand that fill the air making this golden foggy haze, which by all accounts, will get worse over the next few weeks.  How do people with upper respiratory challenges handle it?


When I'm on the road like this there is seldom a chance to stop and take pictures.  I am fascinated by the Fulani people who I see along the roads and in the fields herding their livestock.  I mostly see them--young boys and men of all ages, standing in the fields with their staffs resting across their shoulders and often wearing some unique straw head coverings.

On the way to Katagum, I was pleasantly surprised to see not one, but two female herders. Both girls were no more than 10 years old and both were handling at least 20 cattle!
The Fulani live all over West Africa and are thought to have migrated from an area around the Senegal River Valley,entering what was referred to as Hausaland in the 13th century. They are one of the first group of people in West Africa to converted to Islam. Other religions are represented within the group including traditional religions. As the nomadic Fulani move throughout the areas of northern Nigeria, they conquered the Hausa  and somewhat blended into one society. 


From the conversations between my colleagues of Yoruba and Fulani origins, I learn about the Fulani caste system and how during special occasions, people are served different packages of food in different locations depending on their status.


Traveling back to  Bauchi provided even more insight into this unique culture. We were held up by a line of cars thought to be part of a political campaign.  About 30 cars ahead was a van with lights flashing on top.  At the border between Ningi and Bauchi, the convoy cam to a halt. There was a flurry of activity. Men got out of cars and moved quickly to the center of the line.  Some of the men were dressed in red and blue turbans that I recognized from my experience at the Durbar in Kano as guards for the emir. There is to be a big celebration and installation of the governor and other dignitaries into positions related to the emirate of Bauchi on Tuesday. A Durbar will be held in the afternoon.  (My supervisor says he has an invitation, but I'm not sure we will have time to attend anything other than wrapping up final reports on workshops with mentor teachers and coordinators)


Its an interesting system whereby a traditional religious system, its laws and pagentry exists along side the civil government of the nation.

On the Road Again

This should probably be the theme song for my stay here in Nigeria! I've just completed a 3-day training session in Azare with instructors who will serve as Mentor Teachers for the Nigeria Northern Education Program(NEI).   The 27 trainees are all members of the faculty  of the College of Education in  Azare and will, along with 20 other MTs, be responsible for providing training and support for teachers in 100 public and Islamiyya schools and non formal learning centers throughout the state. Student-centered instructional modules on Literacy for Primary 4 pupils  were featured in these first training sessions. After being field-tested and revised the modules are now ready to be place in the hands of teachers to help guide them away from the 'chalk and talk' approach to learning in the majority of classrooms in both Bauchi and Sokoto states.  The Ministry of Education, local government officials and community groups are disturbed about the 70+%  rate of illiteracy in the northern states and want to make changes in the system-in teacher training, placement and in instruction.


My training partner and I were expected to travel to and from Azare each of the three days.  Five hours on the road plus seven hours of intense sessions wasn't appealing, so we negotiated to stay in Azare, but where? It's not as if there are Holiday Inns, or Days Inns, or even Motel 6 along the road.  A call was made to one of the contact people who recommended a hotel, but when we arrived on Tuesday morning, another contact told us about a less expensive alternative "where people from the medical school stayed". The short of the story is that this off the road, down the path and around the corner place was the kind where you sleep with your eyes open! We stayed just one night.  In our haste to secure a place while on lunch break, we had paid for two nights without looking at the only other hotel in town. Fortunately, the second nights payment was refunded.


Again during lunch, we checked out the Jimroose International Hotel (not quite) and asked key questions:  What time is the generator turned on? (6pm) What time is it turned off? (midnight) Is there central hot water or individual tanks(individual which means take your shower at night while the power is on if you want hot water!) Are there rats (they always say 'no, of course not!') And most importantly, is hot water available for coffee? (Yes, it will be brought from the restaurant at 7am).  We forgot to ask what time the gen went on in the morning.  At the previous place power was provided from 5-6am so that residents could prepare for work.  At Jimroose, there was no early morning schedule, so when I woke up at 6, I pulled out my trusty flashlight to get to the 4'x4' bathroom to take a cool shower.


One of the MT's loaned us a car for the duration of our stay-a manual shift Honda Civic.  I was thrilled by the chance to drive, even if it was just for a short time.  Negotiating motor bike, pedestrian and livestock traffic along with potholes, round-abouts and free-flowing traffic was a little more than I thought I could handle.  After getting us safely back to campus, I turned the keys over to my training partner.  He got us everywhere safely, but in my opinion did not handle the car as well as I did :-)


A flat tire greeted us the last  morning of our stay.  Again the great sense of hospitality of the Nigerian people emerged.  There is always someone willing to help.  A man who was washing cars in the parking lot, changed the tire and we were on our way. After giving participants their assignments and paying them for their participation (Yes, people get paid for attending workshops)


Rules about not being on the road at night had to be revised.  It was after five when we left Azare. This meant arriving in Bauchi around 8pm.  The nighttime drive was beautiful, but somewhat frightening. People returning home from daily routines were barely visible along the unlit roads. Some motorbikes carrying passengers to their destinations. had either dim or no headlights at all.  One huge cargo truck had lights only on the left side.


Thanks to our excellent driver, we arrived safely. Personally I was looking forward to a hot shower and a good nights sleep.

A little interruption in my flow here. In the words of Arnold " I'll be back". Soon.