Indigo Dye Pits of Kano

 We were trying to make the best of our time together in Kano.  Pam was leaving on Monday the 11^th. There was the wedding reception, Pam’s send forth celebration and souvenir shopping to be done.  Most of the places I wanted to check out-- the ancient Kurmi Market, Central Market, the Fabric Market and Indigo Dye Pits had already been visited by the other AVE’s who live in or near Kano.  I was  glad they agreed to revisit at least Kurmi and the Dye Pits after I arrived.  I found my way to the market across from the Central Hotel on my own, but ran out of time before I could get to  another area of the city where thousands of different types of fabric are sold

 After a couple of stops our driver dropped up off at the pits.  We would have to find a taxi or tuk-tuk (canopia) to get back to the house at Sa’adatu Rimi College of Education because the driver who had picked us up 2 hours late, had another engagement.

A man who introduced himself as Hadim greeted us outside the gate to the Kofar Mata Dye pits.  He recognized Pam from her previous visit and chatted with her briefly.   He explained to us that the pits were set up in the late 1400s and were among the oldest in Africa.

I was a bit disappointed when we walked through the archway and onto a multilayered area of concrete like platforms dotted with pits ranging from three to about eight feet in depth.  Only about four of the  30 or so pits appeared to be in use.  Most were filled will trash—discarded water sachets, paper, twigs and the place didn’t generally look as if it had been given the respect of care earned by its historical significance.  We were introduce to one dyer who had worked in the trade for almost 50 years as the involved process of making the indigo dye and coloring fabric was explained.  A few yards away was the ‘ironing room’.  As we approached a rhythmic whomp, whomp, whomp could be heard above the roar of traffic outside the gate.  Four men knelt on either side of 2 logs that were about 2 feet in diameter. In ancient traditional fashion, they alternately pounded pieces of fabric to ‘iron’ or flatten them after they had been dyed and dried.

Then on to the finished products: we were surrounded by vendors showing off fabric of different sizes and shapes who explained the significance of each design—bride and groom, rising moon and sultans guards, among others.  Pam and I bought squares of the bold blue fabric.  Barb decided the products looked too much like 70s tye-dye to invest in. Oh well, so much for historical significance.

Wedding in Kano

We were all invited to the wedding of one of our country representatives’ sons.  Actually as we learned later, the invitation was to one of the receptions held for the bride.  The Hausa marriage process is an interesting one which involves separate events for men and women. 

Earlier we had been asked for our measurements and color preferences. To our surprise, outfits were made that we were asked to wear to the reception. Except mine wasn’t quite ready for the Sunday afternoon event.  I wore a traditional dress given to me as a gift by the ladies of Yankari Block in Bauchi.

We walked to the house and found the event in progress.  There were women and children all over, sitting in chairs in the back yard, sitting on the ground under a tent, sitting in every room of the house.  Outside an all female group from Niger played wonderful traditional music.  We were served food in take away type containers, but other groups of women shared large plates and bowls of rice and stew.

Then we danced...and were showered with Naira! What fun! I thought it was the bride who was showered, but the bride never came out of the room where she sat demurely on a stool in the corner of a room surrounded by her entourage.  We were invited inside to meet the new bride and to take have pictures taken with her.  She is a lovely young woman who graciously accepted our congratulations.  Because of what I know about her in-laws, I’m sure she’ll be encouraged to seek professional opportunities beyond producing as many children as possible, which often seems to be the primary expectation of women here in the North.

The group finished playing and packed up to leave and the celebration seemed to be coming to an end.  We thanked Nafisa for the invitation and her hospitality and walked to the front of the house only to find a (all male) band was setting up in the front yard for the party to continue.

This type of traditional wedding is a multi day affair which I believe started on Friday.  Even the following Monday there was an exchange of gifts between the in-laws.  The groom provides clothing (including underwear), yams, kola nuts and other foodstuff and livestock along with a dowry to the bride’s family to secure the union.

My Send Forth from Bauchi

It was at the Monday staff meeting that my final departure from Bauchi was announced.  I didn’t anticipate the swell of emotion as I spoke about my departure.  The journey and experience from October 14^th when I arrived in Bauchi to this day had been both rewarding and challenging. 

As I glanced around the table, fond memories were revisited: the women of Yankari Block-Rabie, Helen, Aisha and Maryam, my soul sisters who were essential to my education in the culture behind the culture; the guys from finance, always ready to say No, but in a helpful way; Bright, the energetic M & E staff person; the System Strengthening team, and of course, Nurudeen, my colleague and coordinator of the Teacher Education component, and all the others.

The Acting Director proposed a send forth on Thursday afternoon, my last full day at work.  A couple of people were volunteered to coordinate the event then we were all off to take care of the business of the day.

It’s an extremely busy time for all project staff--third quarter reports are due, as are projections and plans for the upcoming year.  The annual work plan conference was scheduled in about two weeks and drafts and revisions had to be done.  There is no ‘down time’ when it comes to international development projects; particularly this one which I feel is understaffed.

The women of Yankari Block minus one.

Knowing the crunch under which everyone was working made me more grateful for the time everyone took out of their busy schedules to say goodbye.  It was a fun-filled, reflective occasion. I hope it wasn’t recorded :-).

I was touched by the sentiments expressed by my colleagues.   After being invited to come back to continue working with the project, the parent organization decided the liability of protecting volunteers and interns was too great, so I was in a sense, ‘kicked to the curb’.  It was a decision that disappointed many. They jokingly suggested marrying me off to one of staff members, so I could become a Nigerian citizen.

Great friendship have been made and I hope cultural barriers have been bridged in the process

Point and Kill

My colleague invited me to dinner with his family.  His children who range in age from 10 to 5 years of age are my adopted grandchildren.  He and his wife have extended warmth and opened their home to me during my stay in Bauchi.  She is an excellent cook, owns a catering business and often brings breakfast and lunch to the office for her husband and me.


He had some errands to run before going home.  I was curious when he pulled up to a roadside eatery.  (There are numerous open places to eat along the roads here--a woman cooking masa, suya stands, kilishi joints, everywhere).

What is this place? All I could see were foil packages on a grill. The sign read "Point and Kill".  My imagination went into overdrive. What does this mean? What is sold here?


Come here, he said, directing me behind the grill and to a large tin tub filled halfway with water and two huge catfish.   He repeated "Point" directing his finger at the tub, "and Kill"--a chopping block nearby bore evidence of a gutted fish.


Oh, this is similar to the "You Buy, We Fry" seafood places at home.


The fish, grilled in foiled with spices (hot) and potatoes was indescribably  delicious!

Last Movement in Bauchi

Wednesday I took part in my last school monitoring visit before leaving Bauchi and had dinner with my adopted Bauchi family.  Tomorrow Thurs) the office has planned a 'send forth' gathering for me. Friday I leave for Kano, then to Sokoto next week. Melancholia is setting in.

About the monitoring ..teams of project staff have been going to each of the 10 local governments in which the project supports a total of 10 public, Islamyia and non-formal schools to check on their progress after rounds of training have been completed. These monitoring visits have been scheduled every Wednesday for the past three weeks.  With the frenetic schedule on which development projects operate, sometime things go haywire.  One team left their team leader behind.  He and another partner had to take a hired car because two of the project vehicles had been scheduled for long distance trips.  As a result, this team could only visit one of two schools.  Travel to the second school required an all-terrain vehicle, not the Toyota Corona (yes!) they hired.  

My team also had to use a hired car for the hour and a half drive to the Alkaleri local government. I have no idea what happened to divert the project car we were scheduled to travel in.

One class was being held in this 3-room school

Anyway, our driver Ephraim was good and managed to keep the car upright as we straddled gullies, avoided herds and drove through fields to get to one Tsyangaya school.

Many of these Islamic schools which are operated by local Imans are held under trees or make-shift structures.  I was pleasantly surprised to see a regular, 4 classroom ETF (Education Trust Fund) structure at the edge of the village bordering the farming area.  

Writing slates prepared by the Imam for study of the Koran

One class was in session with a little over 30 pupils, all boys ranging in age from 7 or 8 to early teenagers, in attendance.  A check of the enrollment register showed that the contact person for more than two thirds of the boys was the Imam.  Parents literally turn their boy children over to religious leader for care and spiritual guidance.  Many of these boys come from other states and never get to see their parents or families again.  The problem of the almajari is huge in northern Nigeria.  Hundreds, no thousands of boys roam the street begging for money and handouts.  Their education is limited.

Support for Orphans and Vulnerable Children is the projects primary focus.

This situation appeared a little different.  The boys were receiving more than religious education as a few were asked to read  information randomly selected from the board. (Memorization rather than actually learning how to read is a problem).  We were told there was also a girl's school in the village that is not supported by the project.  Unfortunately we were unable to visit that school.  I would have liked to compare facilities, resources, instruction, etc.

Reading Has Not Been Fundamental

Something happened with the instruction of children in Northern Nigeria.  Wait, this is a mis-statement, better nothing is happening with the instruction of children in the North.  They are not being taught to read.  Through this project, the Early Grades Reading Assessment (EGRA) was administered to about  2, 000 Grade 4 pupils.  The test was originally administered last spring in English, the official language of the nation. The results were dismal.  Students were tested again in their mother-tongue-Hausa in the fall.

Last week, I participated in a workshop where the results of the mother-tongue language testing were reported along with planning the way forward. About 70% of the students could not read in their first language.  I suppose the science of reading instruction has changed over the years, but it appears that many primary school teachers don’t have the training needed to teach students how to develop this fundamental skill. Even though instruction during the first three years is in Hausa, traditional methods of instruction have not given kids basic literacy skills. They should be able to read in Hausa in Grade 1. Memorizing items from the blackboard and repeating text does not produce independent readers.

So what’s next? A big intervention by USAID and other international partners? Yes, but what will the government do to address this serious deficiency? State education officials who attended the two-day workshop were dismayed at the results and seemed focused on changing the situation, first by making parents aware of some of the things they can do to support good reading habits and then through rigorous teacher training.


President Jonathan promoted a movement—Bring Back the Book during the national elections.  Will the effort to teach reading and to get Nigeria youth to read be a well supported long termed focus or….

A Foreigner—No Matter How You Look at It

Illustration from article in The Economist --"Being Foreign"
"It is becoming both easier and more difficult to experience the thrill of being an outsider"

I don’t really know the basis of my expectations when I decided to share my teaching skills in West Africa for a year. Living and working in a Black nation was going to be a first for me. I have visited many, from Haiti to  Trinidad and Tobago to Ghana, taking note of the wonderful similarities between us of the African Diaspora, as well as the pervasive vestiges of colonialism that plague us.  My perspective from my orientation on Pan- Africanism (beyond the continent) from the likes of Dr's. Gossie H. Hudson and Walter Robinson at SIU; Dr. Morris Johnson whose founding of Simunye, embraced the connection on an educator to educator level; and artist and historian, Dinizulu Gene Tinnie, among others led me to anticipate a “welcome home” with open arms greeting from the sisters and brothers of Nigeria.  That has not quite been the case.  Assimilation and acceptance into another culture is a complex process. Even in this 21^st century ‘flattened’ world numerous barriers exist. This perspective is different than looking at the hospitality extended by Nigerians, particularly in the northern part of the country—it’s more like the reality behind the hospitality.

A couple of experiences have give pause to my ‘open arms’ expectations.  At a staff meeting, the program officer, a native Ethiopian with American citizenship was introduced by the director as “a real African-American” which, I guess, makes me something akin to Spam.  On more than one occasion this same person has joked about me finding my “roots”.  During the height of unrest surrounding the election period, a statement about the dissident group Boko Harem targeting foreigners, whether they were Black or white gave me the idea for the title of this post.

  Where many in the African Diaspora continue to search for our tribal connections, I never expected such—well, I’m going to label it disdain by those who know their tribes and can usually readily recite their family histories.  I am well aware of the roles of volunteers here, not solely to share our knowledge and experience, but as ambassadors and connectors between nations and cultures. (Ok, that’s sort of nirvanaish, but perspectives on neocolonialism are not part of this post).

Learn the language for greater acceptability or, do the best you can to manage common phrases. Efforts to use basic greetings and phrase are appreciated, but there are those not-so good hearted jabs that come from time to time. We speak English—well it’s neither American English nor British English, but “Naijanglish”—a combination of British English and Nigerian language syntax.  Initially, to my ear even Nigerian English needed translation.   In some ways, this subtle intolerance is comparable to the attitude many in my home community react to immigrants who struggle with English.

 The best prices on almost everything are obtained in the open markets as opposed to some of the many convenience type stores.  Except, the vendors spot a foreigner immediately, and prices are elevated.  Then serious bargaining is required.  A bunch of bananas was purchased by one of the drivers for 300 Naira, but the vendor wanted to charge me 500 even though I was with the same driver who got a better price when he was alone.  It’s just assumed that all foreigners, especially Americans, have money to burn!

We are referred to as ‘expats’ and receive somewhat different support that the ‘locals’. Additional support for professionals living and working outside the environment of their native country particularly where living conditions are so dissimilar is understandable, but discontent is openly expressed by the ‘locals’ who don’t share that point of view.

And so as a foreigner in Naijaland I continue to try and put my American sensibilities in check. Despite coming from the most diverse nation in the world, I suppose one just must ‘go with the flow’ learn as much as possible about the local culture and not stress over those things of which we don’t have control. Core attitudes of people, their personalities, approach to familiar and unfamiliar situations, and don’t really appear to differ significantly from one place to the other. We have easier access to each other throughout the world, understanding, acceptance and yes that "t' word tolerance takes a little longer.

Excess Baggage

Just a few weeks before heading home and I have a dilemma.  I thought I had packed rather judiciously to come to Nigeria—3 bags including a carryon piece that ended up having to be checked.  I  carried educational materials so, my bags were overweight.   All of those things pamphlets, workbooks, bookmarks, pens, pencils, etc., have been distributed.  Now I have 5 bags ( and no souvenirs yet)! Hmm, what to do :-)???

Teaching at the Women’s Vocational Centre

Malam Usman, Coordinator for the Doya Centre program

Elevating women to a status of first class citizenship is slowly evolving in the northern states of Nigeria.  A number of groups and projects support the need for education for girls, yet there is much to be done.  Many girls don’t have the opportunity to attend or complete school.  Those  who do attend school lag behind their male counterparts  in both literacy and numeracy skills.  I suppose there are many reason for these differences.  Even though there has been an increase of attentions and support for girl child education throughout the country more needs to be done and positive results will hopefully come in time.

An energizer to start the session

For five weeks while I was here in Bauchi, I worked with facilitators at the Doya Women’s Centre on strategies for literacy instruction. Girls who have dropped out of school attend classes at the center.  Eighteen women who teach courses on English, Hausa, mathematics, tailoring, knitting and hair dressing among other vocational skills took part in the sessions. The center is supported by the Adolescent Health and Education Development Center (AHEAD). Personally I feel the students, all girls between the ages of 13 and 18, should also be provided instruction in skills related to living in the 21^st century—computer, cell phone, photocopier repair, even auto repair. Why not?

The facilitators were all very enthusiastic and have high expectations for their students.  One of the vocational teachers said she wanted her students to learn all they could and be able to live independently.    The facilitators agreed to meet with me just after regular school hours, so many had to bring their children to our sessions.  The youngest participant was about a year old. I think the children enjoyed themselves as much as their mothers. 

Hopefully, engagement with this group will continue as it will help build a solid foundation for the education of girls using learner centered instruction.


On our last day together, the ladies were encouraged to write any questions they had on index cards and I answered them at the end of the session. Here are some of their questions and comments just as they were written:  

1. "In your name Madame I can see Mc in your surname. What does that Mc mean as I see it in so many names of the people?"


2." Black Americans don't want to be called Nigro but I read it in the card you distributed to us. And what does that card mean?" (The card was a bookmark about Zora Neale Hurston.  This was definitely not a short answer question!)


3."After you have finish your period of lecture in Nigeria, when are you coming back to see what you have tought at the back?"


4."Apart from English, can you speak in another language again? If so which tribe?"


5. My question is that do you have children? If yes how many are they in number" and on another--"What is the name of your children?"


6. "You have said you don't have a husband. Is he died or not?.. When (do) you go back to America?"


7. I want to communicate with you when you are back in your country.


8. "Hello Ma.  I am just to thanks for what you have tought us. May God bless you."


I am blessed.

Real-Sized Women!

Voluptuous, zaftig, full-figured, zoomba, big, even ‘fat’ women are greatly appreciated in Nigeria. I love watching the images projected by Nigerian media, from news anchors to lead actors in Nollywood novellas to commercials, of women who aren’t skinny.  You know the type—the ones who look as if their arm would come out of the socket if it were pulled too hard!  They are full-figured, healthy and confident!  Not all of the images are like this, much of the programming for younger generations and many of the music videos appear to mimic western music industry stylings-complete with skinny dancers.

Though standards of beauty differ from tribe to tribe, the appreciation of a well rounded female body seems to be a common thread.  Of course, there are women who seek more ‘Madison Avenue/western” type beauty-based on the idea that one can never be too thin.  And, I won’t get into the issue of hair here (wigs, synthetic hair and hair pieces are the norm), or the plethora of “skin whitening’ products in the marketplace, but in my opinion, subliminally the images of success are tied to those manufactured in the West.

A couple of guys I work with were discussing ‘desirable’ traits of women for marriage.  (I don’t know how they got on this topic) This is where I learned more about the “fattening rooms” that exist among the Efik in Calabar.  Young women, in preparation for marriage are secluded a special location where they are taught the art of being a good wife.  They are well fed and physical activity is minimized so weight can be added to their frame.  Other cultures around the world have similar processes.  As long as they are healthy, women should feel confident about being the size they are naturally, not struggling to meet unrealistic images.

A young Nigeria women posted an article entitled Skinny vs. Fat  on her blog.  It’s an interesting perspective on the topic. Check it out......                                                                                                                Skinny vs. Fat : An African Woman on the Politics of Feminine Beauty  

Show Them the Money!

Nigeria’s reputation of being a country filled with corruption is not exaggerated based on the almost daily accounts in local newspapers.  Elected and appointed officials are referred to “big men” and “big women” not just for the power wielded in their positions, but also for the material wealth gained through a system of skimming contracts.  Whether it’s the power system, oil related industries, building and supplying resources for schools, or teacher appointments, often there are multiple middle-men.  As a result, there is no place in the country that has constant non-generator assisted power unless Naira changes hands. The cost of oil products and by- products is extremely high and some teachers share their salaries and stipends with those officials who assist them in gaining a position at a school or at a workshop.

The system  is a sad  and growth limiting misuse of great human and natural resources.

But, beyond the systemic corruption, everyone, it seems, expects to get paid for almost everything they do! Public officials who attend meetings, for example with the NGO I work with, expect to get paid a transportation fee by the agency each time they attend a meeting, paid to attend workshops, etc.  (A transportation allowance is paid by the state or local government which they represent )Teachers get paid to attend professional development sessions or meetings they attend representing their schools. (I am an advocate for better compensation and support for teachers, but my position is a little different  about  how its done here)

My greatest frustration (and the reason I am writing about the situation) came while providing a series of professional development workshops for faculty members of the College of Education. Literacy rates in this state among both children and adults are among the lowest in the country.  More than 50% of basic education teacher are not qualified, that is they don’t have the minimum national certification to teach. More than half of those certified are not competent! It stands to reason that a project focused on strengthening the states’ education system would focus on producing better qualified teachers.

In this case, the target is pre-service teacher who will begin their teaching practice at the end of the year and the faculty of the Primary Education Studies Department.  The faculty appeared very enthusiastic about the process of goal setting and developing a work plan to meet those goals. The other part of the process  was instruction on learner centered instructional strategies using literacy and numeracy modules developed by the project,  Lecturers were being asked to infuse the information on learner centered strategies in their instruction.  Copies of the guides will be provided for the students to use in their teaching practice and beyond.

It was when the instructors asked if they were going to get paid to institute these processes that would modernize  instruction and potentially produce better teachers from their college, that I had to take a step back. I had to realize the systemic expectations of the culture with which I was engaged and that the change that is needed will take time.  The answer to the question of compensation was no! An appeal about the bigger picture of this process was made. Hopefully those who buy into the larger vision will be rewarded in other ways.

Time on my hands--Not!

Hmm. Four blog posts today! One might assume I have a lot of free time on my hands rather than three workshops this week to prepare for. Can you say procrastination? Ok time to get back to work :-)

COE Azare

Since the beginning of May, I have traveled to Azare once a week to work with the Primary Education Studies Department on goal setting and infusing learner centered strategies into their instruction of teachers in training.  Our primary target for the stepped down training are students who will begin their student teaching in the fall. I think I've written about the dire straits in which education in this part of the country exists--the children can't read, classrooms are seriously overcrowded, particularly in rural area; the majority of teachers are not certified to national standards, and a large number of those certified are not competent.  Projects funded by USAID, DFID, UNESCO,the World Bank and the Federal Government and others are working towards meeting United Nations eight MDG's (millennium development goals), including universal basic education for all.  Of course, quality basic education is what's needed.

Entrance to my office on campus

Office will become a resource center for the PES Department

Groups work to prioritize goals and develop time lines

The Head of Department (HOD) was away for this session. Department is understaffed by half!

Bootlegged Everything

Throughout Nigeria a problem exists regarding counterfeit products and their impact on the health, economy and wellbeing of the society. A national campaign including a soap opera warning of the potential harmful effects of counterfeit drugs, drinks—you name the product, has been mounted. There is a significant problem with items being duplicated here or imported from India, China and other sources. Now I’ve purchased a counterfeit ‘designer’ bag, DVD and CD or two at home. But as far as I know, none of them was life threatening. 

Bootlegged food and drug items present the greatest concerns.  Lives have been lost and long term illnesses have resulted from people unknowingly taking copycat drugs which have no potency or bottled drinks made with contaminated water.  Every few weeks there is a news report on a raid or bust on some counterfeit product.  A doctor said great strides have been made in this regard over the past few years. NAFDAC’s (National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control) drug labeling, import surveillance and testing procedures have greatly reduced the number of fake drugs in the market. Generally , he added more expensive drugs are not counterfeited.

Difference in price and taste!

Then there are the products with look-alike names and labels as brand name products.  Buyer beware!

Medical Care: The Good, The Interesting, The Dusty

I have had the occasion to visit hospitals in three states here in Northern Nigeria- Bauchi, Kano and Sokoto.  Each state, Bauchi the most recent, has a teaching hospital where according to our insurance provider, a higher standard of care is given. Medical care and facilities here are different in many ways than at home. Some differences are cultural, others local procedures and requirements, lack of adequate power and sanitation, and others, I just don’t have a clue as to why.

Bedside manner and ease of access is definitely a plus for the medical personnel with whom I have had to interact. Of course, since there are no landlines in these parts, one must call the doctor, physical therapist, radiologist, pharmacist, nurse on his/her handset (cell phone)..and they answer! You’re not forced to cue for office visits when a phone discussion can address the problem.

Punctuality is a concern, but its best to be in place before the stated hours because the time of your appointment matters less than the time of your arrival. Get there early and make the cue. I’ve also learned the cue protocol whether at the clinic, bank  or store—just ask who is last in line (usually there is no actual line, just people standing around, but the system works).

Privacy as we know it back home does not exist. I have been in exam rooms where as many as three doctors are seeing patients. Medical staff, nurses, clerks and sundry individuals are in and out of the room. Just knock on the door and enter (you don’t have to wait for permission). Examinations, consultations, related and unrelated problem solving all occur at the same time—it’s amazing. HIPPA infractions abound!

Hygiene and sanitation are different. Sometimes exam gloves are worn, but take your wipes for tables and other equipment. Many places have jalousie windows and are open to the elements so there’s always a layer of dust on everything!

Finally, the cost of medications is very attractive. There is some concern about fake drugs, but certified international drug brands are much less expensive.

"Girls and Women’s Education: It is a RIGHT—Make it RIGHT" Global Action Week

The theme for the 2011 Global Action Week Celebration is no more appropriate to any other developing region I have visited than northern Nigeria. Women and girls occupy the bottom rungs of this complex society whose traditional cultural and religious mores and dire economic conditions conscript women to lives of illiteracy and second class citizenship.  Girl children are denied education and often sent out on the street to ‘hawk’ or sell goods to help support their family or are married off for the dowry.  Marriage is arranged for girls as young as 12, 13 and 14 years of age as a first, second, third or fourth wife in the Islamic community and sometimes just as early in the Christian community. 

In the two states in which this project operates Sokoto and Bauchi between 34% and 39% of girls attend primary school. About 88% of girls between the ages of 6 and 15 are illiterate.  According to the World Health Organization, the HIV/AIDS rate in Nigeria is one of the highest in the world with Nigeria accounting for about 10% of world wide rate of infected persons. Of course the rate among women and girls is soaring.  A number of national and international organizations have health and education programs aimed at shifting attitudes toward education for girls.

I’ve had a number of rewarding experiences during my stay in Nigeria; among the most rewarding was the opportunity to participate in one of the Global Action Week activities coordinated by one of the project’s state partners.  Helen, Desk Officer for CSACEFA (Civil Society Action Coalition on Education for All) planned a series of community engagements around the international theme.  Women from all walks of life were organized in teams and went to schools in towns and villages to share personal stories about how education has impacted their lives.  I told Helen I wanted to support this effort in any way possible.

We arrive at Yilwa: Anita, Maryam, Helen , Ernestine,
the reporter and driver Ephraim

 The presentations had to be delayed as a result of continued unrest in the state.  Project vehicles were still being restricted to the compound, so ‘car hires’ had to be arranged in order to carry out events. I was not able to attend the first presentation in Alkaleri, but was pleasantly surprised when I was asked to attend the program in the village of Yilwa in the Dass local government, instead of another meeting.  One hired car was not adequate for 6 adult passengers, including a local reporter, so Helen decided to take her personal vehicle which was driven by a project driver.  The village was a little more than an hour’s drive from our office.  We stopped along the road to pick up Ernestine, a founding member of the Women's Commission Club of Bauchi. (It's so cool. They wear specially designed wrappers that include their logo.

We veered off the main road and travel along a narrow dirt road, past farming plots, mango groves and through a wooded area before coming to the village.  A crowd had gathered in anticipation of our visit.  Though the program targeted 45-50 girls, it seemed most of the village turned out for the event.

We meet the tribal elders

First, protocols had to  be observed. We were greeted by the School’s Headmaster and local government representative and then taken to greet the traditional ruler. ( I was a little embarrassed.Yilwa is a traditional Islamic village. Women are required to cover their head and shoulders.)  Many other times I had carried a shawl in my backpack in case it was needed for situations such as this, but not that day! And neither of the other ladies had an extra.  Fortunately, understanding and compassion is often given to foreigners for such cultural lapses.

Seeking help for my introduction in Hausa

We introduced ourselves and Helen provided information on the program and thanked the ruler for accommodating the program.   

Maryam makes presentation to LGA official

The presentation took place outside. Desks and chairs from the school were placed in a semi-circle under a large tree for the guests, others stood around to complete the circle. Maryam, a staff member who works with the OVC (Orphans and Vulnerable Children) component and a title holder in her community, was the main speaker.

Skit: Family did not believe in education for girls

Women from the Yilwa community perform skit

 In addition to our presentations, women and girls from the village performed a skit they had put together.  It was a powerful story of two families, one who encouraged their daughter to continue her education; the other against education for girls beyond primary and focused on the economic support the girl needed to provide to help the family.  The educated girl married well and brought gifts back to her family while the economic situation of the undereducated girl and her family did not change significantly.

Helen and reporter interview student

After the program, girls who are still in school and some who had dropped out were interviewed about their thoughts on the value of education plans. Realizing they had done a disservice to their daughters by limiting their education, some older women were in tears after the program. Yet it is evident that traditional roles for women are slowly changing within the context of the cultural and religion.  Educated women make better wives because they are more capable of taking care of the home and children, is the focal message.

 Global Action Week

CSACEFA

Necessity--The Mother of Invention

Yes, I am a caffeine addict. My form of choice is coffee (though a cold Coke or Snickers are sometimes good substitutes) . I moaned and groaned a bit about having been brought Peets coffee beans with no coffee grinder to be found anywhere ...except the one I bought from a little shop in Sokoto owned and run by some Chinese people.  The gadget cost about 500 Naira ($3) but raised enough suspicion about its function and quality that I insisted on knowing the stores' return policy before turning over the cash. Sure enough, a handful of coffee beans produced less than 1/8th teaspoon of finer than espresso grind powder.  Most of the beans fell between the gears. I returned it the next day.


In my frustration, two items on the desk grabbed my attention and I thought about helping my mother make biscuits on Saturday mornings when a rolling pin was nowhere to be found..Ah ha!

Democracy Day--Bomb Blasts

Today (Monday) is a public holiday in Nigeria. May 29th, the day set aside for Nigerians at home and abroad to celebrate the  twelfth anniversary of democratic rule.  This year the day coincided with the inauguration of the newly elected president Goodluck Jonathan, for  whom many in the country have high hopes to advance democratic processes here. There is much yet to be done to overcome years of 'business as usual' according to the attached article.  

President Goodluck Ebele Jonathan @ inauguration

On the Road…..Again

Since my return to Bauchi in mid-April, my work with the State College of Education had been delayed.  Unrest surrounding national elections limited movement of project vehicles, first within the local government area, then with prohibition from leaving the compound at all.  The death of Bin Laden then generated anti-western sympathies by some in Muslim communities.  The transport limitation meant one of the projects drivers had to be sent in his private car to pick me up and take me to the office.  Staff holding activities outside the immediate area was advised to hire private vehicles.

So, about two weeks ago, the coordinator of the Teacher Education component and I headed to Azare—about a two and one-half hours drive from Bauchi.  A hatchback that looked very similar to my cousin’s first car which was affectionately known as the “bubble car” and its driver were hired for the trip. Though the make and model of the car escapes me, believe me, it was vintage!  The average daily temperature has been about 37.7˚C or right around 100˚F, so having air conditioning was one of the requirements for a hired vehicle.

Well, the bubble car was air-conditioned, I think.  There was cool air for a while and then there was just air.  Turn up the fan, my colleague directed the driver.  The air got no cooler.  My clothes were sticking by the time we got to our destination.

Safety is another condition which also means the car should be in good repair.  The bubble car ‘floated’ every time we hit a dip in the road; swayed on curves and shuddered when slowing for turns.  Now, I don’t have to submit a query to the guys on Car Talk to know there were serious, shock, strut, and maybe transmission issues with this particular car!  I agreed to go back the next day because my engagement with the COE had already been delayed. There was no way I’d travel in this car again! A different car was secured for the next day and following week of my travel to and from the college.

I leave Bauchi on Tuesdays and return Thursday mornings. Two nights in Azare. Originally the plan was for me to spend an extended amount of time there—1-2 months, which would limit the support I could provide to other  TE activities. Additionally there are security concerns regarding Azare.

 During the elections horrible violence occurred there. Dozens of young people, members of the National Youth Service Corps were murdered in post-election violence.  The Corpers, as they are commonly called, are university graduates who are required to commit one year to community service after graduation.  As I understand it, the Corpers are assigned to communities/ areas of the country different than the one in which they live in an attempt to build a sense of national spirit and reduction of the tribalism which exists in various regions. The Corpers usually work as teachers, but were assigned to work with the elections commission throughout the country in a move to help ensure a credible election process and have technologically savvy operators for the new electronic voter registration system.  Everyone I’ve spoken with in Azare, the Provost, head of campus security, students and others express repulsion and embarrassment over the tragedy. Nothing like that had ever happened.  But senseless, barbaric violence knows no bounds. Poverty, illiteracy, mob-mentality—a deadly mix for sure. 

Reassurances and additional security plans are in place.     So, I’ll pack up my things every week to prepare for the drive to Azare.  Packing up means checking out of my room in Bauchi, storing my belongings with the hotel, in addition to preparing a bag for the two nights stay.

My digs in Azare are interesting—a new structure opened for about 6 months, at which generator power is only provided from 7pm until 6am.  It’s located in the GRA, but like in most of the country there is no sustained electrical power. Even when the current flows from NEPA (the power company) it’s not strong enough operate the room’s a/c unit.  Did I mention it’s hot?