A Foreigner—No Matter How You Look at It

Illustration from article in The Economist --"Being Foreign"
"It is becoming both easier and more difficult to experience the thrill of being an outsider"

I don’t really know the basis of my expectations when I decided to share my teaching skills in West Africa for a year. Living and working in a Black nation was going to be a first for me. I have visited many, from Haiti to  Trinidad and Tobago to Ghana, taking note of the wonderful similarities between us of the African Diaspora, as well as the pervasive vestiges of colonialism that plague us.  My perspective from my orientation on Pan- Africanism (beyond the continent) from the likes of Dr's. Gossie H. Hudson and Walter Robinson at SIU; Dr. Morris Johnson whose founding of Simunye, embraced the connection on an educator to educator level; and artist and historian, Dinizulu Gene Tinnie, among others led me to anticipate a “welcome home” with open arms greeting from the sisters and brothers of Nigeria.  That has not quite been the case.  Assimilation and acceptance into another culture is a complex process. Even in this 21^st century ‘flattened’ world numerous barriers exist. This perspective is different than looking at the hospitality extended by Nigerians, particularly in the northern part of the country—it’s more like the reality behind the hospitality.

A couple of experiences have give pause to my ‘open arms’ expectations.  At a staff meeting, the program officer, a native Ethiopian with American citizenship was introduced by the director as “a real African-American” which, I guess, makes me something akin to Spam.  On more than one occasion this same person has joked about me finding my “roots”.  During the height of unrest surrounding the election period, a statement about the dissident group Boko Harem targeting foreigners, whether they were Black or white gave me the idea for the title of this post.

  Where many in the African Diaspora continue to search for our tribal connections, I never expected such—well, I’m going to label it disdain by those who know their tribes and can usually readily recite their family histories.  I am well aware of the roles of volunteers here, not solely to share our knowledge and experience, but as ambassadors and connectors between nations and cultures. (Ok, that’s sort of nirvanaish, but perspectives on neocolonialism are not part of this post).

Learn the language for greater acceptability or, do the best you can to manage common phrases. Efforts to use basic greetings and phrase are appreciated, but there are those not-so good hearted jabs that come from time to time. We speak English—well it’s neither American English nor British English, but “Naijanglish”—a combination of British English and Nigerian language syntax.  Initially, to my ear even Nigerian English needed translation.   In some ways, this subtle intolerance is comparable to the attitude many in my home community react to immigrants who struggle with English.

 The best prices on almost everything are obtained in the open markets as opposed to some of the many convenience type stores.  Except, the vendors spot a foreigner immediately, and prices are elevated.  Then serious bargaining is required.  A bunch of bananas was purchased by one of the drivers for 300 Naira, but the vendor wanted to charge me 500 even though I was with the same driver who got a better price when he was alone.  It’s just assumed that all foreigners, especially Americans, have money to burn!

We are referred to as ‘expats’ and receive somewhat different support that the ‘locals’. Additional support for professionals living and working outside the environment of their native country particularly where living conditions are so dissimilar is understandable, but discontent is openly expressed by the ‘locals’ who don’t share that point of view.

And so as a foreigner in Naijaland I continue to try and put my American sensibilities in check. Despite coming from the most diverse nation in the world, I suppose one just must ‘go with the flow’ learn as much as possible about the local culture and not stress over those things of which we don’t have control. Core attitudes of people, their personalities, approach to familiar and unfamiliar situations, and don’t really appear to differ significantly from one place to the other. We have easier access to each other throughout the world, understanding, acceptance and yes that "t' word tolerance takes a little longer.