Sunday, March 20, 2011

Road Trip--Accosted by the Police in Abuja

It was great to see my colleagues in Abuja as part of the organizations mid term conference.  The rest of the team drove down from Kano and I met them there. Since I arrived before the group, I had a chance to get my hair done--the first time since I've been here.  What a pleasure! Our hotel was a sweet little B&B in the "Model Cities II" area with lovely color themed rooms.  'Geronimo' has a sports lounge, free Internet service and an interesting breakfast selection (including sardine sandwich)Our meeting with the new Mission Director was at 3:30 and Steve was able to get us an appointment at the Embassy to get an update on security and preparations for the upcoming national elections at 2:00.  The advice was basically  to keep the lowest possible profile, update emergency contact information and have a short wave radio on hand. Somewhat standard advice for foreigners during election and similar to that given at our orientation in Arizona last summer. 

Nike Research Centre for Art and Culture
A couple of hours was set aside for shopping and sightseeing before the appointments Our visit to Nike's Center for Art & Culture provide a chance to see some of the rich art work and crafts developed under the tutelage of Chief (Mrs) Nike Davies-Okundaye. Her world renowned batiks chronicle African society's contradictory views towards women.  

After two nights we needed to head to Kano. I was on time for our ten am departure.  Shocked by the vehicle we had to travel in. It was a 1980something Volkswagen complete with cracked windshield, seats that were falling apart, no rear view mirror, no a/c (6 hour drive @ 90degrees), and a window winder that had to be shared by both sides in the back seat. (highway- roll them up; town-roll them down).

Just outside Abuja we pulled over to take pictures of the huge monolith landmark- Zuma Rock. Our driver parked about 20 yards behind what appeared to be a disabled car in which a woman and small child sat.  We all piled out of the car and began taking pictures.  I'd taken enough pictures and was headed back to the car when a truck carrying armed policemen slowed down on the highway. "What are you doing?  Who gave you permission to take pictures here? Where is your permit?"..and on and on. They were mean and insistent, but not as determined as our country representative who told the cops in no uncertain terms that we were within our rights and they had stepped over the line, both of the law and the Nigerian sense of hospitality. 

I suppose rogue law enforcement officers are everywhere.  These guys were looking to intimidate 'the foreigners' and get 'dashed' to allow us to go on our way. They got no Naira and quickly got back in their truck, without showing any concern for the disabled vehicle parked behind them.

A few hours later, just outside Kaduna, the car broke down. It was the alternator. Fortunately with the manual shift we were able to hobble back to the town, find a garage and used part and get back on the road within about an hour and a half.

1 comment:

  1. My prayers are with you. I remember having the M-16's pointed at our car when we did not move out the way of the vehicle with the military police as we went on our way to Badagary. Good that you were not intimidated, but do be careful Anita and always carry something that can be hidden for self-protection...aside from the Grace of God...that is.

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